Bhaiyalal and the Sapat tigress
© Suhas Kumar, 2009, (revised -2017)
Summer in Seoni is like a
sponge that sucks all the juice from your body; sweat flows out from every pore
leaving you limp and lifeless unless you are in the habit of drinking several
litres of fluid every day. The trick is to drink water frequently and never
come out without covering your head and face. I had braved five scorching
summers in this district from 1985 to 1990 while I served as the director of
Pench National Park.
When I joined Pench in June
1985, my predecessor Mr. Parihar - an officer from the old school admired for
his skills as a wildlife manger and a popular bridge player among the local
mandarins - had done some critical groundwork. He had got the territorial
forest land and staff transferred to the national park and set up several
patrolling outposts at strategic locations for it was going to be the core
protection strategy to redeem the habitats from the relentless resource use
pressures from the local people and their cattle of the thirty villages that
were heavily dependent on the forests for grazing cattle, wood and other forest
produce. When I assumed charge my foremost concern was to restore the degraded
habitats and instill some respect for the new national park in the minds of the
locals as well as city dwellers. While it was not so easy to convince the city
dwelling picnic minded visitors that included a class of reckless mandarins who
loved to enter the park at any godforsaken hour with powerful searchlights to
watch wild animals, I was able to dissuade this practise by using a mixed
strategy of persuasion and threat. But it was an arduous uphill task with the
locals who saw the national park as a huge threat to their livelihood; with
them, I gradually developed a love – hate relationship. And one of the hateful
acts, which they enjoyed the most and I hated the most, was starting a fire in
tinder dry forest.
Summer, besides its
life-sucking heat also brings in its wake forest fires – for it leaves grasses
parched and fire prone. In those initial years, the problem of fire got
compounded further as after the national park came into being the collection of
forest produce - that the local people have been gathering for generations and
cattle grazing- was banned making villagers hostile. The park and its staff
became their enemy number one. Many of them where so disgruntled that they were
too happy to cause trouble in the park and keep my staff and me on our toes -
one of their diabolic pastimes was to toss a live bidi (country cigarette) butt
on the grasses along forest roads, give a hearty laugh and move on leaving a
raging conflagration behind that took several hours of hard labour to contain.
These fires were disastrous for wild animals, forests and us. There were
certain days on which we had to deal with not one but several scattered fires.
This story that involves my
dexterous driver Bhaiyalal in the backdrop of a firefighting operation that
took place some 24 years ago. It was a sweltering summer night; the fan above
my head was spitting gusts of hot air, and I was turning and tossing in my bed
desperately trying to sleep. Suddenly the call bell gave a rattling shriek, and
I was up on my feet in a jiffy. At the door the orderly of my friend Mr. Gupta
was staring at me- his anxious face displayed the urgency of the news he had
brought. The range officer, Karmajhiri had called Mr. Gupta's residence- as in
those days the park office as well as my home was bereft of the modern means of
communication – and he had requested Mr. Gupta to inform me of the forest fire
that was raging in the park near Alikatta. Whenever such news arrived, my duty
was to respond quickly. I sent for my driver Bhaiyalal who came cycling down
within 20 minutes but the lady luck was not on our side for when we got into
the jeep, and Bhaiyalal turned on the ignition the engine coughed once and then
went dead, the battery was without juice. Ultimately with the help of my
orderly the diesel jeep was pushed uphill to the main road and rolled down the
slope - this worked as it always does with all trusted decrepit diesel vehicles
- and we were off to the park via Badalpar dirt road as it was to save us half
an hour. We reached Alikatta in an hour and a half. My staff and villagers from
Alikatta were fighting the blaze using traditional means that consists of
beating the flames with leafy twigs. Grabbing a leafy twig - which is hard to
find in summer in a usually leafless forest - I joined the fire warriors. It
took almost forty minutes to contain the fire, and by that time I was about to
collapse from severe dehydration. I ran down the high bank to find a pool of
water in the river bed for the Pench river is not perennial, and during summer
water remains confined in small pools - doh or kasa as the local people call
them – I found one soon and gulped the turbid yellowish water scooping it with
my cupped palm; it was as if I were drinking the elixir of life for those few
scoops of water brought me around and I was up on my feet and scampered towards
my team. Reaching them, I ordered my team to inspect the perimeter of the burnt
area to track down burning stumps and shimmering embers and douse them with
water or soil, for a little negligence could start a new fire. After
accomplishing this task, I instructed one of the fire watchers to climb up a
tree and scan the horizon to find out if any other fire was blazing in the
park. Soon we learned that a small fire razed along the river near the
abandoned village of Sapat.
The fire we detected was not
very far from us. My team- six fire watchers, the range officer, range
assistant, the local guard and I crammed into the beleaguered jeep and
proceeded towards the likely location of the fire. To reach the spot we had to
leave the forest road to Sapat and turn into a disused haulage road – that was
in operation when transportation of felled timber from the submergence area of
Totaladoh dam was on till a year ago. After about 200 metres Bhaiyalal suddenly
stopped the vehicle as the road was in disrepair, and the jeep couldn’t move
further. I asked him to wait in the jeep and rest of us proceeded towards the fire
that was still about a mile away. As I along with my team entered the dense,
dark jungle – the radium on my watch showed it was 1 A.M. - with only a torch
to show us the path. I had this nagging premonition that all was not well. We
had walked only a furlong when the frantic shrieks of Bhaiyalal reached us –
"sahib, sahib, sahib." Shouting back at the top of my voice, I turned
and ran full speed tipping over a fallen branch which tore my trousers and gave
my shin a bad bruise – following me were nine others, also shouting in a
chorus. We reached, where the jeep was, to find Bhaiyalal shaking and shivering
as though he was in the grip of malaria.
The account of his nightmare that Bhaiyalal gave us goes like this – "Sir, you saved my life. As soon as you people left a tiger came and stood just by my side. I hopelessly tried to start the vehicle but couldn't, I tried to blow the horn and put on the lights nothing happened as the battery was bust. Then I shouted to you and after hearing the uproar that you all were making the tiger moved away, sir. "
I got worried about the safety of my team members. I hoped that the fire which was spreading along the river bank would, in all likelihood, die naturally after reaching the moist river bank. Thinking this, I ordered my team to leave me at Alikatta inspection hut and proceed to Chchindi matta camp, stay there overnight and come back to me early next morning. Chchindi matta is a tall hillock from where a sizable part of the park can be seen therefore I had asked the team to rest there for the night. From there, any fire could be detected easily, and they could have come back to me in time to embark on another fire fighting expedition. This plan was executed. The night went off peacefully, and at 5 O'clock in the morning I heard them coming. When they alighted from the jeep I could see that all of them were excited, when I asked them what was the cause of their bewilderment they narrated an interesting tale - while coming back, at the spot from where we had taken the turn on the haulage road, they came face to face with a tigress with two cubs by her side. I was happy to hear this as sighting of cubs was good news for the nascent park but I told Bhaiyalal how lucky he was to have escaped unhurt yester night - for a tigress with cubs is unpredictable and had Bhaiyalal attempted to get down from the jeep and run he would not have been, in person, reporting to me the sighting of the mother tigress and her cubs that morning.
The account of his nightmare that Bhaiyalal gave us goes like this – "Sir, you saved my life. As soon as you people left a tiger came and stood just by my side. I hopelessly tried to start the vehicle but couldn't, I tried to blow the horn and put on the lights nothing happened as the battery was bust. Then I shouted to you and after hearing the uproar that you all were making the tiger moved away, sir. "
I got worried about the safety of my team members. I hoped that the fire which was spreading along the river bank would, in all likelihood, die naturally after reaching the moist river bank. Thinking this, I ordered my team to leave me at Alikatta inspection hut and proceed to Chchindi matta camp, stay there overnight and come back to me early next morning. Chchindi matta is a tall hillock from where a sizable part of the park can be seen therefore I had asked the team to rest there for the night. From there, any fire could be detected easily, and they could have come back to me in time to embark on another fire fighting expedition. This plan was executed. The night went off peacefully, and at 5 O'clock in the morning I heard them coming. When they alighted from the jeep I could see that all of them were excited, when I asked them what was the cause of their bewilderment they narrated an interesting tale - while coming back, at the spot from where we had taken the turn on the haulage road, they came face to face with a tigress with two cubs by her side. I was happy to hear this as sighting of cubs was good news for the nascent park but I told Bhaiyalal how lucky he was to have escaped unhurt yester night - for a tigress with cubs is unpredictable and had Bhaiyalal attempted to get down from the jeep and run he would not have been, in person, reporting to me the sighting of the mother tigress and her cubs that morning.
That escape
from the tigress got deeply etched in the psyche of Bhaiyalal and later
culminated in another fascinating tale that I would recount later.
@ Suhas Kumar
@ Suhas Kumar